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date published:
July 5, 2004
Beantown's Must-See Destinations and the Insider Alternatives
by Christine Celli
Finding your way to Boston's most popular
visitor destinations is usually not very difficult. If there's
not a literal line down the road leading the way, there's surely
a well-worn path. But often hidden gems lurk just around the
corner, sitting undiscovered by the crowds eager to hustle on to
the next suggested site in their guidebooks. Without a local to
lead the way, it may be difficult to find out what you're
missing. Since we already know the places likely to be on your
list of things to do while in town-from paying a visit to Cheers
to walking the Freedom Trail-we've sought to highlight some
overlooked, or underrated hotspots that are in the same area. For
those willing to stray from the beaten path, we've also suggested
some alternatives residents of the Hub have been enjoying for
years. Be it a good place to eat right by Fenway Park, or
Boston's other history-rich sporting destination, we're letting
all the locals' secret spots out of the bag. There's no need to
toss that itinerary-just get ready to make some additions.
 CHEERS
84 Beacon St., 617-227-9605
Why everyone goes: When
the long-running,
popular NBC sitcom "Cheers" chose this Boston tavern
(formerly called the Bull & Finch Pub) for
exterior shots for the fictional bar, it's fate as a tourist
attraction would be sealed forever.
After you go: The 21st
Amendment (150 Bowdoin St., 617-227-7100), is right around
the corner from Cheers and probably a better example of a
Beacon Hill pub, with great food options and a lively mix of
locals. Other Cheers neighbors include the former home of the
Boston-based "MTV's Real World" cast (127 Mt. Vernon St.) and
Senator John Kerry's townhouse in Louisburg Square. Just be
sure to mind the Secret Service agents guarding the peace! |
 DOYLE'S
CAFÉ
3484 Washington St.,
Jamaica Plain,
617-524-2345
Why it's worth the trip: Doyle's, founded in 1882, is
the real deal when it comes to pubs where locals might
actually expect someone to know their name. The walls are a
testament to its more than a hundred years' worth of famous
patrons, including former President Bill Clinton and a slew
of local politicians and sports heroes. Even today you're
likely to spot many Boston politicians-such as Mayor Thomas
Menino-dining and drinking there regularly. And like Cheers,
it's even made its mark
 on
Hollywood, having been featured in the recent Academy Award
winner, Mystic River. If that weren't enough, it's
practically a museum to local brewery history, still has the
now-defunct Pickwick Ale on tap, and is just down the road
from the Samuel Adams Brewery (right) which offers tours
Wed-Sat. |
 NORTH END
Why everyone goes: The North End not only draws a
crowd for Freedom Trail stops such as the Paul Revere House
and the Old North Church, but also for the area around
Hanover Street (pictured above) with its abundance of Italian
bakeries and restaurants, including the ever-popular Mike's
Pastry (300 Hanover St.).
While you're there:
The Secret Tour of Boston's North End (617-720-2283) begins
at the Old North Church but follows a far less conventional
path through history than the Freedom Trail. Tour-goers visit
the wake site of infamous convicts Sacco and Vanzetti, hear
stories of the Great Molasses Flood, see Boston's narrowest
residential house and even get a free cannoli. |
 SOUTH END
Why it's worth the trip: The South End (not to be
confused with South Boston, a.k.a. "Southie") is as
picturesque as Boston's Back Bay and North End neighborhoods
thanks to its narrow, brownstone-lined streets. But locals
are drawn here for its ever-growing abundance of stellar
dining options, antique shops and quaint boutiques. For eats,
start at Tremont Street where such standouts as Hamersley's
and Aquitaine (569 Tremont St.) can be found. Then be sure to
make your way towards Washington and Harrison streets for the
open market held every Sunday, the art galleries of the SoWa
area and late-night hot spots like Red Fez (1222 Washington
St.). |
CENTRAL SQUARE
Why it's worth the trip: Eclectic Central Square is
just down the road from Harvard Square and is home to M.I.T.,
a slew of ethnic restaurants and lively nightlife options.
Rock out to local bands at the Middle East Cafe (472 Mass.
Ave., 617-864-EAST), where patrons can munch falafel and
throw back pints of Pabst Blue Ribbon before the show. Or get
your dance on at The Enormous Room (567 Mass. Ave.,
617-491-5599) to hip hop, funk and breakbeats while snacking
on Mediterranean eats. Also popular for food and
entertainment is the Green Street Grill (280 Green Street,
617-876-1655), where Caribbean sounds and flavors are always
on the menu. |
 HARVARD SQUARE
Why everyone goes: If the smartypants that attend
Harvard University are happy here, why wouldn't other folks
follow their lead? Visitors flock to Harvard Yard, shop at
the Coop and other popular boutiques, and people-watch in
"the Pit" (pictured above), where street performers and youth
culture abounds.
While you're there: The Harvard Museum of Natural History
(11 Divinity Ave., 617-495-3045) showcases the artsier side
of academia with the Ware Collection of plant models-over
3,000 artisan-made glass creations representing more than 830
plant species. Then visit Grendel's Den (89 Winthrop St.,
617-491-1160), where food is half-price during happy hour. |
 HANCOCK TOWER
200 Clarendon St.,
617-572-6429
Why everyone goes: It's next-to-impossible to miss
this striking, sliver-of-glass masterpiece of architect I.M.
Pei-if not for its elegance, then for the fact that, at 62
stories tall, it towers above nearly everything else in the
Boston skyline.
After you go: Copley Square, nestled at the base of the
Hancock, also features examples of the city's earlier
architecture. Be sure to tour the Boston Public Library and
visit Trinity Church, both considered masterpieces in their
own right. Also in the Tower's midst is the masterwork of
restaurateurs Michael Schlow and Christopher Myers-Via Matta
(79 Park Plaza, 617-422-0008). The praises sung for this
Italian trattoria soar even higher than the Hancock. |
 CUSTOM HOUSE TOWER
3 McKinley Square, 617-310-6300
Why it's worth the trip: The Hancock Tower may be
touted as the most striking skyscraper in the Hub, but only
the Custom House holds the distinction as the city's first.
With its 30-story tower completed in 1915, the structure
seems by today's standards a modest height for "skyscraper"
status. But Walt Whitman dubbed it "the noblest form of
commercial architecture in the world." And today, its
handsome, illuminated clock tower still holds a place in the
hearts of the hometown crowd-especially now that it
accurately tells time.
Before it was renovated,
locals nicknamed the building the four-faced liar because all
four clocks showed a different time. But these days things
are looking up. The Custom House is now home to 84 vacation
time-share units. And while those on the ground are getting
the correct time, those visiting the observatory are soaking
in the spectacular views of the Harbor. Another room with a
view: The Skywalk Observatory at the Prudential Center gives
guests the highest perch from which to view their
surroundings. |
 FREEDOM TRAIL
Why everyone goes: The painted, red brick line of the
Freedom Trail weaves its way through the heart of the city,
connecting 16 different historic sites from Boston Common to
"Old Ironsides" (a.k.a. the U.S.S. Constitution).
After you go: Since the
Trail covers a lot of ground, there are lots of potential pit
stops. We especially like Olives, the
flagship eatery of celebrity chef Todd English, in
Charlestown; Ye Olde Union Oyster House, the history-rich seafood spot steps from Faneuil Hall;
and Filene's Basement, the shopping mecca for bargain hunters
in Downtown Crossing. |
 BLACK HERITAGE TRAIL
Why it's worth the trip: The Black Heritage Trail
gives you a glimpse behind aspects of Boston's history that
are oft-overlooked but no less relevant than the sites on the
Freedom Trail. Stops at the 54th Regiment Memorial (a
testament to the achievements of the first black regiment of
the Civil War); the Lewis and Harriet Hayden House (a major
part of the Underground Railroad); and the African Meeting
House (the oldest black church edifice still standing in the
United States); among others, show the often critical role
Boston's African-American community played in the politics
and battles that shaped our country into what it is today.
|
SUFFOLK DOWNS
Route 1A, East Boston, 617-567-3900.
Why it's worth the trip: It's the only horse track in
Boston and home to the MassCap, but what makes it especially
interesting to casual fans of horse racing is that a year
after opening its doors in 1935, trainer Tom Smith arrived to
watch the horse that would make him famous-Seabiscuit-whose
story was immortalized in last year's major motion picture.
Under Smith's training, Seabiscuit would be back a year later
and best a field of 12 to become the first favorite to score
in the MassCap. His final time is still a track record. If
you go: Take the MBTA's Blue Line and stop at Revere Beach,
the first public beach in the country and a national
landmark. |
FENWAY PARK
4 Yawkey Way, Tickets: 617-482-4SOX;
Tours: 617-226-6666.
 Why everyone goes: Whether it's to see a game or take
a tour of the grounds and behind the Green Monster, sports
fanatics clamor to glimpse the former home field of Ted
Williams and the oldest ballpark in the Major Leagues.
After you go: The
Back Bay Fens (between Commonwealth and Huntington Avenues),
or the "other Fenway Park," is part of Frederick Law
Olmsted's Emerald Necklace and boasts the oldest victory
garden remaining in the country. Take Peterborough Street to
get there from Fenway Park and choose from a variety of
outdoor dining spots-from Thai to barbecue-along the way. |
 Quincy
Market/
Faneuil Hall Marketplace
Why everyone goes:
Faneuil Hall, a historic meeting hall and market center that
dates to pre-Revolution Boston, flanks the shopping and food
mecca Quincy Market/Faneuil Hall Marketplace, one of the most
popular attractions in the city. During convention week,
several national television programs, including "The Today
Show" with Katie Couric, will broadcast from in and around
the area.After you
go: Search for fresh produce and other wares from 200
pushcart peddlers at The Haymarket (Blackstone and Hanover
streets), held every Fri and Sat 6 a.m.-7 p.m. Around the
corner, the historic Blackstone Block, contains the oldest
continuously-operating restaurant in America, Union Oyster
House. |
 Newbury
Street
Why it's worth the
trip: Dubbed "The Rodeo Drive of the East" by Bostonians
who still think we're the "Hub of the Universe," Newbury
Street boasts the best shopping, strolling and
people-watching in the city. Flanked by the historic
Ritz-Carlton Hotel on one end and the Virgin Megastore and
Urban Outfitters at the funkier end, Newbury is where locals
and tourists really do mix. On the chi-chi side, you'll find
stores from European designers like MaxMara and Ermenegildo
Zegna. Don't miss the Alan Bilzerian boutique or the
internationally renowned Louis Boston, which has remained on
the cutting edge of men's (and now women's) fashion for over
50 years. On the hipper end of the Street, check out Newbury
Comics, which sells a huge selection of discount CDs, DVDs
and other pop culture kitsch. Then grab a bite to eat at the
funky bohemian hangout Other Side Cosmic Cafe (407 Newbury,
617-536-9477). If outdoor dining is your thing, Newbury
boasts the best sidewalk cafes in the city, including Sonsie
with its signature French windows and frequent celebrity
sightings, and Stephanie's. Refer to listings in Shopping and
Restaurant Guide. |
BOSTON COMMON/PUBLIC GARDEN
 Why everyone goes: Smack in the middle of downtown
Boston, these two storied green spaces sit side-by-side and
are home to the beloved Swan Boats and outdoor, summer
performances by groups including the Commonwealth Shakespeare
Company.After you
go: Check out The Charles River Esplanade by crossing the
Arthur Fiedler footbridge at the intersection of Beacon and
Arlington streets. The 17-mile-long park runs along the
river, is a haven for athletics-from jogging to sailing-and
is home to the Hatch Shell, site of outdoor summer concerts
including the famed July 4th Boston Pops performance. |
ARNOLD ARBORETUM
 125 Arborway, Jamaica Plain.
Why it's worth the trip: The Arboretum was established
in 1872 when James Arnold, a whaling merchant who apparently
fancied flowers, willed part of his estate to Harvard
University as a place to raise as many varieties of plant
life as possible. Charles Sprague Sargent took up Arnold's
cause with the help of famed landscape architect Frederick
Law Olmsted, creating the 265-acre natural haven that is now
part of the Emerald Necklace. Today the Arboretum boasts
plants and trees from all over the world, a library housing a
40,000-volume herbarium collection, and a terrific view of
Boston from atop Peter's or Bussey's Hill. |
BOSTON HARBOR ISLANDS
Why it's worth the trip: A cruise of the Boston Harbor
Islands includes a stop at George's Island, home to Fort
Warren-a National Historic Landmark thanks to the role it
played defending our coastline, especially during the Civil
War. Formerly a patrol point, training ground and prison,
Fort Warren was finally decommissioned in 1947 and is now
fully accessible to visitors. Kids will have fun exploring
its secret passageways while parents will enjoy the history
lesson and picnicking possibilities on the 53-acre island.
The park also boasts a snack bar and wonderful vistas of the
Boston skyline. |
U.S.S. CONSTITUTION
 Charlestown Navy Yard, 617-426-1812.
Why everyone goes: The beauty and stature of tall
ships always seems to attract a crowd and the U.S.S.
Constitution, the world's oldest commisioned warship still
afloat, is the crown jewel for seafaring fanatics and
military buffs alike.
After you go: Right next to "Old Ironsides" is the U.S.S.
Cassin Young, a WWII destroyer open for tours. Or pay a visit
to City Square Park (on the corner of Rutherford Avenue and
City Square), which was fashioned from 40 acres of new green
space created thanks to the Big Dig. The park offers views of
the centerpiece of that highway project-the cable-stayed
wonder, the Leonard P. Zakim Bunker Hill Bridge. |
Museum of Fine Arts
465 Huntington Ave., 617-267-9300
Why everyone goes: One of the Hub's oldest and most
important cultural institutions, the Museum of Fine Arts
boasts an encyclopedic collection of art spanning most
countries and eras, with particular strengths in European and
Impressionist paintings, ancient Egyptian art and artifacts,
and Asian art. The museum also has an active film screening
program and presents live music at its Concerts in the
Courtyard series (Wednesdays during the summer).
After you go: If
you're into fine art, the oft-overlooked Isabella Stewart
Gardner Museum, located right around the corner from the MFA,
is a must-see. Named after 19th century philanthropist Mrs.
Gardner, who willed her entire estate and all its art to the
public, the collection features important pieces by
Rembrandt, Sargent and Matisse, as well as what's been voted
the city's most significant work of art, Titian's painting
The Rape of Europa. And you'll love the museum's idyllic
Venetian-style courtyard filled with flora and fauna
(pictured right). |
 Fogg
Art Museum
32 Quincy St.,
Cambridge, 617-495-9400
Why it's worth the trip: Boston offers a wealth of cultural
attractions for art lovers, but Harvard University on the
other side of the Charles boasts three world-class art
museums, led by the Fogg with its Italian Renaissance-styled
courtyard and its galleries that illustrate the history of
Western art. The museum's Wertheim Collection features one of
America's finest stockpiles of Impressionist and
Post-Impressionist paintings and, although the MFA has some
great Picassos, the Fogg displays the city's most important
collection of the Cubist's work. Even better, the museum is
free on Saturdays from 10 a.m.-noon.
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