date published:
August 16, 2004

Boston
Harbor has always been an important part of the Hub’s economy, but
its precise role has varied over the years almost as much as the
tide. In the city’s early days, the Harbor helped us prosper thanks
to its status as a major colonial trading port. And while there was
a time during the 1970s and ’80s when industrial pollution
diminished much of the water’s splendor, these days the lively,
thriving port is considered one of the cleanest major waterways in
the U.S. and ships of all sorts crisscross its waters toting
pleasure seekers and fisherman alike. So whether you’re a landlubber
who enjoys the sea but prefers to keep the shore in sight, or a
rugged sea dog ready for a taste of the unknown, there’s a treasure
trove of options to get you out of the bustling metropolis and onto
the water.
ISLAND HOPPING
When most people think of Boston Harbor, they think of the Boston
Tea Party. But our harbor has been much more than a dumping ground
for the riotous acts of angry patriots; it is also home to more than
30 splendorous islands that make up the Boston Harbor Islands
National Recreation Area. Just a 30-minute ferry ride from the city,
these picturesque oases offer an abundance of recreational and
historical activities. There’s the 39-acre George’s Island, where
you’ll discover the pre-Civil War-era Fort Warren containing dozens
of dark passageways and secret rooms. The fort, built during the
first half of the 1800s to protect the harbor, was used as a prison
during the Civil War and is rumored to be haunted by “The Lady in
Black,” the ghost of a young bride who was caught trying to visit
her husband (a prisoner on the island) and was hanged for spying.
You can clamber all over the structure, then set up a picnic along
the shores or grab a bite to eat at the snack bar. Afterwards, take
a water taxi to one of the other islands, including Little Brewster,
home of the oldest continuously operating lighthouse in the U.S.,
Boston Light; or Gallops and Lovells, where you can swim on sandy
beaches, hike wind-swept dunes or take in views of the city skyline.
Boston Harbor Cruises runs ferry service to George’s Island from
Long Wharf.

CAMPING
If you want to turn your visit to the Harbor Islands into an
overnight affair, permits are available for camping on several
islands, including Grape, Bumpkin, Peddocks and Lovells islands.
Both group and individual sites are available with a reservation,
but reservations are not site-specific. Upon check-in, a park ranger
assigns you a sleeping spot for the night.

PILGRIM'S PRIDE
Provincetown (a.k.a. P-Town) may be at the very tip of Cape
Cod, but thanks to Bay State Cruise Lines and Boston Harbor
Cruises, the famous resort town is only a quick cruise away,
making it an ideal day trip for visitors hoping for a break from
the city.
For the uninitiated,
Provincetown is an eclectic blend of sandy beaches, restaurants,
candy shops, unique boutiques and a lively and diverse community
that welcomes all walks of life—from drag queens and bikers to
families and fishermen, and everyone in between.
Travelers can choose between
two cruise options: one speedy, one budget-friendly. The
pricier, speedier ferry service—offered by both companies—makes
the trip in a mere 90 minutes, maximizing the amount of time you
can spend wandering P-Town’s main drag, Commercial Street, or
sitting on the beach. Round-trip service costs approximately
$48–58, with the last ferry departing for Boston as late as 8:30
p.m., Thursday–Sunday. For $19–29 round-trip, Bay State Cruises
also offers a trip that leaves Boston Friday–Sunday at 9:30
a.m., arriving in P-Town after a three-hour cruise. This slower
trip allows for only a short stay (the return trip departs at
3:30 p.m.), but the price and pace make it a good choice for
families. You may even spot a whale or two on your trip. |
Once you’ve pitched your tent and taken in your surroundings, you
can hike trails or swim in the ocean (which is permitted on Bumpkin,
Grape and Lovells islands). Grape also boasts an abundance of wild
berries, making it a great destination for bird watchers.
Unfortunately, travel between the islands is only possible during
daylight hours, so you’ll have to plan ahead if you hope to explore
more than one. The best part of camping on any island is that, with
rates ranging from $5–15, the excursion is one of the city’s more
affordable day trips.
DINING AND DRIFTING
Drifting on the ocean under city lights and twinkling stars is
enough to turn an ordinary meal into an adventurous excursion the
kids can appreciate and a romantic ride appealing to parents as
well. Spirit of Boston Cruises (departs from the World Trade Center,
200 Seaport Blvd., 617-748-1499) offers a two-hour lunch cruise,
complete with a show and sightseeing tour. Catch views of the city
skyline while soaking up the sounds of Sinatra and other singers on
this “Sentimental Journey.” In between songs, a narrator explains
some of the various surrounding sights. The lunch buffet serves,
appropriately enough, seafood favorites such as filet of sole and
tuna salad.
Odyssey Cruises (Rowes
Wharf, 1-888-741-0281) embarks on several different trips daily and
provides a more upscale dining experience on board its modern,
elegant yacht. A children’s meal rate is available for the lunch and
brunch cruises, making them the best bet for families. But when
night falls, adults will enjoy dancing to live jazz music and Top 40
hits on one of the lower levels, or heading to the observation deck
to sip cocktails under the stars while taking in views of the city.
A four-course meal is served on the dinner cruise, and the trip can
be commemorated by the staff photographer.
NIGHTLIFE
Some of Boston’s best nightlife can be found out on the water. For Latin
lovers, Boston Harbor Cruises spices things up with its Salsa Harbor
Cruise series. Every Sunday beginning at 6 p.m., guests gather at Long
Wharf, where beginner salsa lessons are provided for those who need the
practice. Then everyone boards the ship for a three-hour cruise featuring
dancing and a buffet dinner. When the boat returns to port, the partying
and dancing continue at the nightclub Sanctuary on nearby State Street,
free of charge. Dinner theater fans
will want to consider Boston Harbor Cruises’ Mystery Cruise, which
departs Long Wharf on Fridays and Saturdays at 7:30 p.m. While
touring the inner harbor, guests enjoy a gourmet dinner from
Ristorante Marino. But the real fun comes from the on-board comedic
improv actors, who incorporate their audience members into a
whodunit mystery. Witness a murder, search the boat, question the
characters and, if all goes well, solve the crime before returning
to shore.
HISTORY LESSONS
While military history buffs can have the perfect field day on
George’s Island and Fort Warren, they won’t want to end their trip
there. Boston Harbor Cruises runs two sightseeing cruises, one to
the Charlestown Navy Yard—home of the U.S.S Constitution—and the
other a 90-minute historic cruise that is sure to teach even locals
a thing or two they didn’t know about Boston Harbor. There’s even a
Sunset Cruise available that concludes with a front-row seat for
“Old Ironsides’” end-of-the-day cannon serenade. Massachusetts Bay
Lines offers a similar tour of the harbor’s historical points aboard
one of its replica steamships. The 55-minute narrated excursion
includes a tour of the U.S.S. Constitution.
A WHALE OF A TIME
The inner harbor may once again be home to a wide array of wildlife,
but in order to enjoy firsthand some of the most majestic, peaceful
and titanic creatures of the ocean deep, visitors need to travel
farther offshore. Local whale-watch excursions bring peepers out to
Stellwagen Bank—a national marine sanctuary that is home to a
variety of ocean mammals including dolphins, seals, finback and
minke whales, and even the crowd-pleasing humpback whale. Tours
depart from the waterfront and are run by several different
companies, including Boston Harbor Cruises (One Long Wharf,
617-227-4321), Massachusetts Bay Lines (Rowes Wharf, 617-542-8000)
and the New England Aquarium (Central Wharf, 617-973-5206). Most
trips take approximately three hours and are considered among the
most exhilarating nature-loving experiences available in Boston (see
Whale Watch listings in Sightseeing, for times and rates).
Because the summer months are a time when there’s an influx of
whales feeding and mating on the bank, most companies guarantee a
sighting.

COME SAIL AWAY
With the sun slowly
setting on Boston Harbor, the crew of the Liberty Clipper,
one of the schooners owned by the Liberty Fleet of Tall
Ships, moved into position as eager patrons lined up to
embark on a cruise of the harbor. “Welcome aboard,” the
captain called from above with a smile, dwarfed by the
hulking masts rising behind him. As people staked out their
spots on deck or lined up at the bar for a pre-sail
beverage, the well-tanned crew pulled up the lines in
preparation for the voyage ahead.All of the Liberty ships, designed to replicate 19th-century
clipper ships, can carry upwards of 100 passengers and boast
an impeccably manicured wood-and-steel finish and billowing
white sails. And sail they do, making daily trips out of
Boston Harbor, including featured excursions such as Friday
night lobster dinners and Sunday brunch sails.
What makes the Liberty
Clipper experience special is its unique view of Boston. Not
only are you offered a spectacular view of the skyline, the
two- to three-hour cruises take guests away from the hustle
and bustle of the city, giving them a taste of the
tranquility that Boston’s waters held in the city’s earliest
days. Passengers are also encouraged to test their
seamanship and join the crew in raising the sails. “When I
say heave, you say ho,” the captain bellows, bringing to
mind the Old World vessels that once criss-crossed the
globe. A journey aboard the Liberty Clipper will thrill avid
boating enthusiasts, but landlubbers shouldn’t fear either—a
trip aboard a tall ship is almost always smooth sailing.
—Matt Karr |
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