date published:
September 27, 2004

Explore the Boston area’s diverse
neighborhoods with our guide to the Hub’s less-traveled
destinations by Christine Celli
You probably already knew Boston
has a large Irish-American population, but do you know where Southie
is? And did you know that we have lively Latin-American,
African-American, Portuguese and Brazilian communities as well? And
that the North End isn’t the only area Italian-Americans call home?
In fact, some of the city’s most diverse and culture-rich sites are
to be found off the beaten path in our various neighborhoods. But
navigating the world outside of downtown Boston isn’t always easy
and often guide books are little help. So in the following pages, we
take you on a tour of the people and places that make up our city’s
diverse enclaves.
ALLSTON/BRIGHTON
In its early days as a meat packing mecca, Allston and Brighton were
neighborhoods most feared by cattle. These days, Allston is still
slightly scary for those who wish to avoid the throngs of college
students who graze the area and are drawn by cheaper rents, live
music venues and its proximity to BU and BC. But even if you’re not
in college, the cheap eats, pool halls and dive bars clustered on
and around Harvard Avenue make it a good place to look for
nightlife. Brighton, on the other hand, is more residential, but
Brighton Center does get hopping on weekends.
Getting There: Allston: Green B Line to Harvard Ave.
Brighton: the 57 bus from Kenmore. Things
To Do: Sunset Bar and Grill features more than 100 beers
on tap. The Model Cafe (7 North Beacon St., Allston, 617-254-9365)
is where rockers, not models, drink cheap beer and play pool. The
Green Briar (304 Washington St., Brighton, 617-789-4100) has live
folk music and Irish eats. Head to Grasshopper (1 North Beacon St,
Allston, 617-254-8883) for good vegetarian food. |
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ROXBURY/MISSION
HILL
Neighboring communities Roxbury and Mission Hill have gone through a
lot of change over the years. Roxbury is one of the city’s earliest
settlements, founded by English colonists in 1630, while Mission
Hill played host to the city’s beer brewing tradition, attracting
German and Irish immigrants looking for work. Today, Roxbury is the
heart of Boston’s African-American community and Mission Hill, near
Northeastern and Wentworth Universities, attracts numerous students
as well as families of all ethnicities.
Getting There: Orange Line to Roxbury Crossing and the
Silver Line to Dudley Square. Things To Do:
Mission Church (1525 Tremont St., 617-445-2600): a massive
Romanesque-style basilica built in 1876. Franklin Park (refer to
listing, page 60) is a 427-acre park designed by Frederick Law
Olmsted that includes a zoo and golf course. The Museum of the
National Center for Afro-American Artists (pictured right) displays
a wide range of works by black artists and the building has been
named a historic landmark, to boot.
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EAST
BOSTON
“Eastie” began as a collection of islands and was once even
considered a vacation destination. Now home to Logan Airport, it’s
today what most people think of as a vacation beginning. But the
largely working-class neighborhood has grown increasingly diverse
since the 19th century when it was home to primarily Italian
immigrants. Newer residents hail from everywhere from Southeast Asia
to South America. Over Columbus Day weekend, the Italian community
will make its presence known with a parade (October 10 from 1–5
p.m.), sailing races and various cultural activities.
Getting There: Blue Line stops
Maverick through Suffolk Downs. Things To
Do: Take a low cost sailing lesson or just enjoy the view
of Boston Harbor at Piers Park Sailing Center (95 Marginal St.,
617-561-6677). Santarpio’s (113 Chelsea St., 617-567-9871) boasts
phenomenally good pizza. Uncle Pete’s Hickory Ribs (309 Bennington
St. 617-569-RIBS) has award-winning Southern-style barbecue. Check out the horse racing at Suffolk Downs (617-567-3900).
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JAMAICA
PLAIN
Jamaica Plain, or “J.P.,” borders Roxbury and Brookline and is often
thought of as a town all its own. Residents appreciate the area for
its diversity, which includes the Latino community in Hyde Square as
well as its wealth of artists, musicians and young professionals.
Visitors especially enjoy basking in its green spaces including
three parks on the Emerald Necklace—Franklin Park, the Arnold
Arboretum and Jamaica Pond. Getting There:
Orange Line stops include Jackson Square, Stony Brook, Green Street
and Forest Hills. Things To Do:
Learn about the area’s beer brewing tradition and sample Sam Adams
at the Boston Beer Museum (refer to listing, page 60). Tacos El
Charo (349 Centre St., 617-522-2578) boasts homemade sangria,
Mexican food and a live mariachi band. Good times at Milky Way
Lounge and Lanes (403-405 Centre St., 617-524-3740) include
candlepin bowling, karaoke and live music. Legendary Irish pub
Doyle’s Cafe (3484 Washington St., 617-524-2345) offers equal parts
history lesson and watering hole. |
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SOUTH BOSTON
“Southie,” as South Boston is commonly called, is not the same thing
as the South End. This infamously insular Irish community borders
Boston Harbor and attracts a gaggle of folks to its annual St.
Patrick’s Day parade. Things are diversifying more and more these
days, thanks to new residents flocking to the area for its
waterfront properties, the artists lofts of the Fort Point Channel
area and an easy commute to downtown Boston. Not surprisingly, it’s
also still popular for its Irish bars.
Getting There: Red Line stops include South Station,
Broadway, Andrew and JFK/UMass. Or take the 9, 7 or 11 buses.
Things To Do: Castle Island (the
end of William J. Day Blvd., 617-268-5744) is home to Fort
Independence and a great place to relax outdoors. A white marble
monument to the British evacuation of Boston in 1776 stands at
Dorchester Heights (on Telegraph Road). Amrheins (80 West Broadway
St., 617-268-6189) is one of the oldest Irish pubs in town, while
Lucky’s Lounge (355 Congress St., 617-357-LUCK) offers nightlife for
Southie’s new generation. |
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SOMERVILLE
Somerville is actually its own city with its own neighborhoods, but
as it borders Boston and Cambridge and is easily accessible via
subway, it doubles as a enclave of both. Popular areas include Davis
and Union squares, which attract college students from Tufts,
Harvard and MIT, and are full of bookshops, funky cafes, bars and
restaurants. Getting There: On
the Red Line, stops include Porter and Davis. Or go to Sullivan
Square on the Orange Line. Things To Do:
The Burren (247 Elm St., 617-776-6896) is a cozy Irish pub known for
its mix of rock and traditional Irish music. A retro-cool 1940s
eatery, Rosebud Diner (381 Summer St., 617-666-6015) offers a varied
menu and full bar. Prospect Hill Park (on Munroe Street between
Prospect Hill Avenue and Walnut Street) is where the first flag of
the American colonies was raised and has a great view of Boston.
Somerville Theatre (55 Davis Square, 617-625-4088) doubles as
mid-sized live music venue and art house movie theatre that also
screens cheap, second-run films.
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